Wrimco Waterproofing Co -

Q1: I am enquiring about what product you could suggest for a leak I have in my balcony. It is finished in unpolished porcelain tiles. There are no obvious cracks or openings and I suspect that water is seeping through the minute gaps between the grout and tiles. The area is not used very often, but is subject to traffic so the coating must be able to withstand light traffic. Any product I can apply on the tiles.

A: We would recommend to use UV resistant Polyurethane c lear liquid membrane.

Q2: I am enquiring about Fish Pond Sealer. Would this be suitable to apply to an existing fibreglass pond. The pond does have a leak. I will empty the pond and waterproof it with Fish Pond Sealer. Pond size is approx 5m x 2m x .6m deep.

A: Fish Pond Sealer is a water-based polyurethane, acrylic co-polymer, which when fully cured, forms an impervious, flexible and aesthetically pleasing waterproofing membrane which enhances the look of the pond or water feature. It is non-toxic and formulated to be suitable for use with fish and plants.

Q3: Can I directly adhere tiles to the surface of Wrimco Multiseal pure urethane?

A: Wrimco Mulitseal pure urethane can certainly have tiles adhered to its surface. It would be advisable to prime with a water based epoxy.

Q4: We are building a concrete wall that will be built up to an existing slab. There will be a step in the wall to the slab. Unfortunately because of the sandstone boulders above the rock we cannot get in to cut a flashing so I don't know what the best way is to waterproof the junction. What is your advice?

A: If Wrimco drainage cell is used in one piece (2m x 20m) and there is a flashing at the top of the concrete wall to cover its top edge, then this should be effective but unfortunately the galvanised product presents a problem. Assuming they are inserted through the drainage cell, urethane sealant could be applied but there will be minimal adhesion to the PP. Since concrete is to be used and not porous blockwork, this should suffice. I would recommend Wrimco BLW latex bitumen together with PB4 protection board to concrete upturn before the big stones are installed.

Q5: I am having a problem with my leaking portable roof. It consists of a sandwich board ceiling/roof but the steel has pulled away from the foam backing (de-laminated). I have tried waterproof paint/membranes but it is still leaking. Do you have any suitable applications in your range of products?

A: I suggest you use our UV resistant Polyurethane liquid membrane provided the foam is not polystyrene which would be dissolved by the solvent. Otherwise use our Duro AC external acrylic liquid membrane. Best of all would be to use Wrimco SBS Granules sheet membrane but you would a waterproofing applicator to torch apply the 4mm SBS sheet.

Q6: I am about to begin construction of a basement that will require around 460m2 of waterproofing membrane to the external walls which will have a very clean FC Sheet finish. All joints will be sealed with a urethane sealant. Which product would you recommend to use in this situation? Do we need to use a plastic Coredrain product or is a Geotextile product sufficient to protect the membrane?

A: Hopefully the FC will be thick enough to permit a 4mm gap between sheets in order to insert 6mm closed cell backer rod, ie 10mm, to form the perfect joint for our PU25 urethane sealant. Recommended quantities would be: Duro ARW 3 x 20li , Duro BLW 29 x 20li with the BLW roller applied in 2-3 coats.

It would be best to protect the membrane with "no nails" PACTIV PB4 Protection Board rather than geotextile. With the PB4 there is no need for a plastic Cordrain product. Since each bundle opens up to approx 1.2m x 15m strips and the material is closed cell Polystyrene foam, it is very quick and easy to apply with smears of styrene compatible glue or duct tape to secure in place prior to backfilling.

Q7: I have a leak in my concrete pond which is approximately 2m x 2m x 0.6m. I suspect the crack is in the bottom of the pond. What is the right product for the job and how is it applied? What colour is the product and how much do I need?

A: We would recommend Epoxy Primer and our Fish Pond Sealer.

Q8: A 230mm thick brick wall has recently been built which encloses a room with a roof and a concrete floor. The brick wall is rendered with acrylic membrane applied externally and internally. A small bubble (about 10mm) has appeared probably from dampness in the wall. Can the wall be treated to avoid future dampness.

A: Acrylic membranes are often applied as a paint or coating rather than a minimum 0.5mm thick membrane but it appears to be more likely to be a rising damp problem. I suggest you consider applying an additional coat of Duro AC, which is an external acrylic, and seek the assistance of a specialist in installing damp proofing to the existing wall.

Q9: I have an almost flat, old steel roof. There are a few skylights and two air conditioning penetrations. there are a few rusted out places. The profile is like cliplock. Do you have a product that I can put on over the old roofing?

A: Sounds like the roof needs replacing but you could remove loose, flaky surfaces, kill the rust and then apply ACS Fibre or Duro SR solar reflective.

Q10: I want to waterproof the roof of a colourbond shed (4.6m x 2.6m). It is a gable roof and the shed will be used to store electrical equipment. Can you suggest a product please?

A: We would recommend our SBR latex emulsion rubber waterproofing membrane .

Q11: How should I waterproof a 200 series masonry block wall in a below ground external environment? As an initial application I have painted a type of black mastic onto the face of the wall, followed by the installation of a 200 micron waterproof membrane. Is this the current technology and are these the correct products to use? What polyurethane sealant should I use to fill gaps between some existing reinforced concrete columns and the masonry block walls.

A: Since the wall is masonry blockwork, a sheet membrane is preferred to a liquid applied type as it spans any voids in the mortar and is best for any expansion joints which are no doubt present. Black mastic may make the wall look waterproof but seldom does it make it watertight. If a liquid applied membrane must be used, then Polyurethane membrane would be the best choice applied at the rate of 1.5 litre/sqm. The 200 micron waterproof membrane is of course a plastic (polyethylene) film but provides very limited protection, is readily torn and water can easily by-pass the barrier. The best practice is to spot torch the dedicated 6.4mm "PB4" protection board to the Wrimco SBS elastomeric as shown on our website. This Canadian manufactured 3.0m sheet is ideal for filling the gaps between the existing reinforced columns and the masonry block walls but if liquids are used, make sure closed cell polyethylene backer rod is used with the urethane (polyurethane) sealant .

Q12: What is a suitable coating to brush onto structures of galvanised steel and aluminium that are below grade and need to stay dry?

A: After priming with a metal primer such as zinc chromate, apply two coats of Polyurethane liquid membrane.

Q13: I need to waterproof a new compressed fibro deck and leave it temporarily exposed to UV and the elements (maybe a few months) until we get a chance to tile it, what product to use and will tile glue stick to it?(no bed)

A: Best to seal / prime with Multiseal and then Multithane UV. If FC is butt jointed, reinforce with 50mm Sontara NWP bandage and apply extra Multithane. Since UV resistant, no problem with a few months exposure and you can glue stick the tiles without bedding.

Q14: During heavy rain the outside drain fills to allow water over the low weatherboards into the house. I would like to remove the inside skirting and bottom board and spray waterproofing to the back and cracks of the external boards. What should I use?

A: Best product would be Polyurethane modified Acrylic liquid membrane.

Q15: Please advise any limitations/ recommendations on tile adhesives that can be used to fix floor and wall tiles to a DuraEF membrane applied to 16mm CFC floor sheet and villaboard walls. I have found 1 reference to not using solvent based adhesives, 1 reference recommending 2 part adhesives, and one reference to being suitable for "most tile adhesives" and a 3:1 cement mix. Can you please advise specific products to use or avoid to ensure the long term integrity of your DuraEF membrane.

A: DuraEF is compatible with most standard tile adhesives. Both single pack or two packs are suitable providing: 1. The tile adhesive should match the flex of the substrate, i.e. if the substrate is flexible such as Villa Board then you need a flexible adhesive. 2. The reason we recommend 2 pack systems is that normally much of the moisture in the adhesive is absorbed in to the substrate - but going over a membrane makes this impossible and hence the evapouration of moisture is difficult. The two packs are able to dry better between the impervious membrane and the impervious tile. However, currently most of the tiling is done using a single pack.

Q16: I am going to waterproof the roof parapet of our 2 storey terrace. I have patched the cracks with cement/sand/concrete. I would prefer to paint it on. Can you please advise what product to use.

A: Best product to use would be Duro AC external Acrylic available in a 15 litre in white or grey which is sufficient for 10 sqm. Emerclad Waterproofing is another option.

Q17: How much product must I use, or what is the usage / coverage of the material ?

A: Whilst some applications may require the use of additional material, the minimum amount of material to be used per square metre is 1.5 litres. This is generally sufficient for two coats but usgae / coverage is dependent upon the type, nature and porosity of the surface. In waterproofing, 2 coats are a minimum but 3 coats are better than two coats and so on - provided that each coat is applied at about 0.5mm thick. Your dry film thickness of the membrane must be at least 1mm but preferably 1.2 to 1.5mm. It is important that you refer to the product data sheet and labels.

Q18: Can I apply membranes to a damp surface?

A: Generally water based systems are able to be used on a damp but drying surface, however Hibuild Epoxy primer should be used if in doubt.

Q19: What can I use in ponds or pools?

A: Fish Pond Sealer or Wrimco-Crystoflex can be used. DuroACS-2 or DuroP15 can be used, however they would normally be tiled or rendered over, to protect the waterproofing membrane from damage. Epoxy Wear may be used as top coat over render for interior and exterior ponds.

Q20: How long should I wait until I do a flood test

A: As a general rule a minimum of 4 days@ 25 C and 75%RH, however this time will increase if the temperature is lower or the humidity is higher.

Q21: Can I water down a water based membrane?

A: No, the membrane is pre-mixed and should be applied at the recommended application rate.

Q22: Can you tile directly onto a polyurethane membrane?

A: No, it is not recommended to 'direct stick' tiles onto a polyurethane membrane. Use a plastic slip sheet with an un-bonded screed.

Q23: What is the expected drying time of a water based membrane?

A: You should allow a minimum of 3-4 days at 25 C and 75% RH.

Q24: We have a Tennis Clubroom project under construction that requires a waterproof coating to a first floor deck that is roofed but open at the sides. The delta core has a slab topping on top that varies in thickness from 175mm on the east to 75mm on the west draining to a ACO SS strip drain. Do you have a product that we can use that will stand up to pedestrian traffic from this first floor viewing platform.

A: AzcoTR is a trafficable, high build, water based acrylic waterproofing membrane, It is UV resistant, tough and durable but still flexible.

Q25: I have a small water feature I need to water proof, it is made from FC sheet. Can I use Crystoflex.

A: Yes, you can. Wrimco-Crystoflex is suitable for many waterproofing applications, and is particularly useful for areas requiring hydrostatic pressure resistance and immersed applications including water retaining structures such as concrete tanks, ponds, pools, fountains and water features. Wrimco-Crystoflex is suitable for contact with drinking water.

Q26: I have a balcony (3 m x 6 m) that has been tiled over concrete/cement about 20 years ago and is now leaking into the room below. Which one of your sealer do you recommend, as I do not want to remove the tiles and put down an new membrane and then re-tile.

A: We would recommend UV resistant Polyurethane Clear liquid membrane.

Q27: I have some wooden shelving that needs to go into a scientific laboratory. These shelves must conform to certain guidelines including..."be smooth, impermeable to water, cleanable, and resistant to damage by the cleaning agents and/or disinfectants that will be used in the facility." The shelves are currently raw woods. The disinfectant used in our lab would be considered quite mild and the shelves would only be wiped over with disinfectant occasionally. The shelves are to go inside a 15 degree C cabinet and have plastic containers placed on them. I have 10 shelves, approximately 520 x 440 x 15 mm in size. Can you suggest any products that might provide this type of protection to the shelving?

A: I would suggest Epoxy primer which is an easily applied, water based 2 part epoxy. Epoxies are well known for their chemical resistance.

Q28: Which product can I use to waterproof inside of the concrete retaining wall?

A: Wrimco- Crystoflex is suitable, prime with Primeseal first.

Q29: I would like to waterproof exterior blue board, it is painted already. Seems I have a leak when the rain drives in sideway into house, is there a clear product I can paint on.

A: Best to waterproof with Wrimco DuroAC colored to match.

Q30: I would like to create a room that will be under a timber balcony which has a proper ceiling and roof cover (part of the whole roof structure of the house). Currently when it rains no water comes through, unless we purposely hose. So would like to seal it so a ceiling can be installed to create this room under it. Is there a substance that can be used for the balcony timber floor?

A: We would recommend DuraEF flexible liquid membrane.

Q31: I would like to coat external timber floor by covering it with compressed cement sheet and coating with a non slip coloured membrane. The deck has a spa pool.

A: Our Trafficable high build, water based acrylic waterproofing membrane will do the job.

Q32: My house is timber frame and brick veneer construction. The bathroom has a concrete slab and I have removed the tiles and the cement render which held them in place. The walls are framing grade local hardwood (Tas Oak, or eucalypt). I have removed the plaster sheet from the walls so the slab and the frame are ready for the water proofing treatment.

A: We recommend our Extra Flexible water based latex emulsion rubber waterproofing membrane, 15 litres to do 8-10 sq. m. and use our Polyurethane joint sealant for corners, angle and across doorways.

Q33: Structure: External Balcony, Timber framed structure with 16mm FC floor sheeting. Waterproof membrane applied prior to tiling has been compromised and visual investigation suggests this is at the butt joints of the floor sheets. Tiles are a porous black with matching grout. No visible cracks can be seen in the tiled area. I need a high strength, flexible, UV resistant clear sealer that can be applied over the existing tiled area. Could you please recommend with installation / facts sheet, availability for pick up in Sydney.

A: Best to use our UV resistant Clear Polyurethane liquid membrane.

Q34: I need to waterproof an area above a garage (kind of a large balcony). This space is used as an outdoor entertainment area with lounges and a BBQ. Wouldn't call it high traffic but it is walked on. It is an old slab and currently leaks into the roof of the garage. The leak is damaging my car. I would like a waterproof solution that can be painted over. Happy to diy any help would be appreciated. The area is under cover but still is exposed to the elements.

A: Best to use UV resistant flexible pedestrian trafficable waterproofing membrane.

Q35: Is DuroAC suitable for allication over expanded Polystyrene?

A: Yes, if it is exposed, if not use DuraEF SBR, but suggest to use Leakseal tape over joints.

Q36: I am designing a reinforced core filled 0.6m - 1.4m high blockwork wall. It is a type of bund wall which will have flood waters on the outside every now and then. The waters may remain for 2-3 days as experienced in the recent floods in Rochester Victoria. I want to provide a clear painted sealant / tanking to the outside of the wall as a precaution. Can you recommend something please. It is an structure that is open to the elements.

A: We recommend 2 coats of DuroAC, first priming with DuroARW.

Q37: I'd like to waterproof my bathroom floor with a fiberglass matting + a waterproofing agent. I also need a waterproofing agent for bathroom fibre cement walls prior to tiling. (Approx 20 square metres).

A: We suggest to use tough, flexible, urethane modified acrylic membrane with Water Based Acrylic primer after caulking perimeters and corners with Urethane Sealant. Use DuroACS for bathroom walls.

Q38: I have a timber framed external wall structure that forms part of a bathroom. Is there a tanking product I could use to wrap the wall and expose the tanking as a feature.

A: A torch on membrane would not be suitable but you could brush/roller apply Wrimco 195 which is black and a pure urethane. You could mix a small protion with some Xylene as a primer.