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Waterproofing Liquid Membrane FAQ:

Q1:  How can I waterproof a new blockwork retaining wall that is always wet at the base?
 
A:   It sounds like you have not left a channel between the footing and the excavation so water seeping from the ground cannot escape. If this is impossible to rectify and you cannot make a low dam wall with quick acting cement to form a gutter, then apply our Crystoseal to the bottom course or two. This will stop the porous blockwork from sucking up the water, thus providing a dry substrate suitable for applying the main waterproofing to the wall .
      

Q2:  I am enquiring about Fish Pond Sealer. Would this be suitable to apply to an existing fibreglass pond. The pond does have a leak. I will empty the pond and waterproof it with Fish Pond Sealer. Pond size is approx 5m x 2m x .6m deep. 

 

A:   Fish Pond Sealer is a water-based UV resistant polyurethane, acrylic co-polymer, which when fully cured, forms an impervious, flexible and aesthetically pleasing waterproofing membrane which enhances the look of the pond or water feature. It is non-toxic and formulated to be suitable for use with fish and plants. 
 

Q3:  Can I directly adhere tiles to the surface of Wrimco pure urethane?

 

A:  If membrane is to be tiled, dry builder's sand should be liberally and fully broadcast into the last wet coat to provide a mechanical key. Allow to cure then remove any loose sand. Ensure surface is dry and clean. Two pack, flexible tile adhesives are recommended. Acrylic bonding agents can be used in sand: cement mixes for better strength and adhesion..

 

Q4:  I have a timber framed external wall structure that forms part of a bathroom. Is there a tanking product I could use to wrap the wall and expose the tanking as a feature in black. It is a freestanding wall approximately 120 thick by 3000 tall and 1400 wide. Can I use a torch on membrane? 

 

A:  A torch on membrane would not be suitable but you could brush / roller  apply our black polyurethane. A 5 litre pail should be sufficient and you could mix a small portion with some Xylene to form a litre can as a primer. Another possibility would be Pondsealer. Take 2 x 4 litres cans and diluting some with water as a primer.

 

Q5:  I am having a problem with my leaking portable roof. It consists of a sandwich board ceiling/roof but the steel has pulled away from the foam backing (de-laminated). I have tried waterproof paint/membranes but it is still leaking. Do you have any suitable applications in your range of products? 

 

A:  I suggest you use our UV resistant Polyurethane liquid membrane provided the foam is not polystyrene which would be dissolved by the solvent. Otherwise use our Duroarmor Siloxane modified external acrylic liquid membrane. Best of all would be to use Wrimco SBS Granules sheet membrane but you would a waterproofing applicator to torch apply the 4mm SBS sheet.  

 

Q6:  I have an almost flat, old steel roof, there are a few skylights and two air conditioning penetrations, there are a few rusted out places, the profile is like clip lock. Do you have product that I can put on over the old roofing.

 

A:  Sounds like the roof needs replacing but you could remove loose, flaky surfaces, kill the rust and then apply ACS fibre follow by top coat of Duroroof, Solar Reflective. Duro BLF can also be used directly onto steel metal roof without metal primer.

 

Q7:  I have a leak in my concrete pond which is approximately 2m x 2m x 0.6m. I suspect the crack is in the bottom of the pond. What is the right product for the job and how is it applied? What colour is the product and how much do I need?

 

A:  We would recommend Epoxy Primer and our Fish Pond Sealer.
 

Q8:  A 230mm thick brick wall has recently been built which encloses a room with a roof and a concrete floor. The brick wall is rendered with acrylic membrane applied externally and internally. A small bubble (about 10mm) has appeared probably from dampness in the wall. Can the wall be treated to avoid future dampness. 

 

A:  Acrylic membranes are often applied as a paint or coating rather than a minimum 0.5mm thick membrane but it appears to be more likely to be a rising damp problem. I suggest you consider applying an additional coat of Duro AC, or Duroarmor, which are external acrylic UV resistant membrane, and seek the assistance of a specialist in installing damp proofing to the existing wall.  

 

Q9: I live in Hobart Tasmania. I am renovating a house and I need to waterproof a bathroom. The house is timber frame and brick veneer construction. The bathroom has a concrete slab and I have removed the tiles and the cement render which held them in place. The walls are framing grade local hardwood (Tas Oak, or eucalypt). I have removed the plaster sheet from the walls so the slab and the frame are ready for the waterproofing treatment.

 

A:  First apply polyurethane liquid membrane over the concrete slab, after mortar bed, you could use polyurethane modified or rubberized latex liquid membrane for floor and walls. Apply polyurethane joint sealant for perimeters and corners. Using angle across doorways and shower area.
      

Q10:  I want to waterproof the roof of a colourbond shed (4.6m x 2.6m).  It is a gable roof and the shed will be used to store electrical equipment. Can you suggest a product please?

 

A: We would recommend UV resistant polyurethane or polyurethane modified liquid membrane after metal primer. Duro FLF can be used directly onto metal substrate without Etch ME primer.  

 

Q11:   How should I waterproof a 200 series masonry block wall in a below ground external environment? As an initial application I have painted a type of black mastic onto the face of the wall, followed by the installation of a 200 micron waterproof membrane. Is this the current technology and are these the correct products to use? What polyurethane sealant should I use to fill gaps between some existing reinforced concrete columns and the masonry block walls.  

 

A:  Since the wall is masonry blockwork, a sheet membrane is preferred to a liquid applied type as it spans any voids in the mortar and is best for any expansion joints which are no doubt present. Black mastic may make the wall look waterproof but seldom does it make it watertight. If a liquid applied membrane must be used, then Polyurethane membrane Multithane would be the best choice applied at the rate of 1.5 litre/sqm. The 200 micron waterproof membrane is of course a plastic (polyethylene) film but provides very limited protection, is readily torn and water can easily by-pass the barrier.  The best practice is to spot torch the dedicated 6.4mm "PB4" protection board to the Wrimco SBS elastomeric as shown on our website. This Canadian manufactured 3.0m sheet is ideal for filling the gaps between the existing reinforced columns and the masonry block walls but if liquids are used, make sure closed cell polyethylene backer rod is used with the urethane (polyurethane) sealant .  

 

Q12:   I need to apply second coat of polyurethane membrane over existing polyurethane membrane which was applied 6 months ago, please advise the steps.

 

A: If they are the same brand polyurethane - it can be re activated by solvent washing it allowing solvent to flash off and then apply another 2 coats.  If they are not the same brand polyurethane - make sure that all bubbles (if any are removed) anything loose is removed and area is totally clean.  Apply 2 coats of our Primeseal allowing drying between coats. Then apply 2 coats polyurethane allowing each coat to dry.
 

Q13:  I need to waterproof a new compressed fibro deck and leave it temporarily exposed to UV and the elements (maybe a few months) until we get a chance to tile it, what product to use and will tile glue stick to it?

 

A:  Best to seal / prime with 2 coats solvent based primer follow by 2 coats polyurethane membrane . If FC is butt jointed, reinforce with NWP bandage ( or seal leak tape ) and apply extra polyurethane membrane. Since UV resistant, no problem with a few months exposure and you can glue stick the tiles without bedding.

 

Q14:  During heavy rain the outside drain fills to allow water over the low weatherboards into the house. I would like to remove the inside skirting and bottom board and spray waterproofing to the back and cracks of the external boards. What should I use?
 
A:  Best product would be Polyurethane modified Acrylic liquid membrane.
   
Q15:  Please advise any limitations/ recommendations on tile adhesives that can be used to fix floor and wall tiles to a DuraEF membrane applied to 16mm CFC floor sheet and villaboard walls. I have found 1 reference to not using solvent based adhesives, 1 reference recommending 2 part adhesives, and one reference to being suitable for "most tile adhesives" and a 3:1 cement mix. Can you please advise specific products to use or avoid to ensure the long term integrity of your DuraEF membrane.
  
A:  DuraEF is compatible with most standard tile adhesives. Both single pack or two packs are suitable providing: 1. The tile adhesive should match the flex of the substrate, i.e. if the substrate is flexible such as Villa Board then you need a flexible adhesive. 2. The reason we recommend 2 pack systems is that normally much of the moisture in the adhesive is absorbed in to the substrate - but going over a membrane makes this impossible and hence the evapouration of moisture is difficult. The two packs are able to dry better between the impervious membrane and the impervious tile.  However, currently most of the tiling is done using a single pack.
  
Q16:  I am going to waterproof the roof parapet of our 2 storey terrace. I have patched the cracks with cement/sand/concrete. I would prefer to paint it on. Can you please advise what product to use.
 
A:  We would suggest REO external UV stable polyurethane modified membrane available in a 15 litre grey ( can be tinted ) which is sufficient for 10 sqm. Other options are DuroRoof, Polyurethane and Polyurea liquid membrane DuroPPM.
 
Q17:  How much waterproofing product must I use, or what is the usage / coverage of the material ?
 
A:  Whilst some applications may require the use of additional material, the minimum amount of material to be used per square metre is 1.5 litres. This is generally sufficient for two coats but usgae / coverage is dependent upon the type, nature and porosity of the surface. In waterproofing, 2 coats are a minimum but 3 coats are better than two coats and so on - provided that each coat is applied at about 0.5mm thick.  Your dry film thickness of the membrane must be at least 1mm but preferably 1.2 to 1.5mm. It is important that you refer to the product data sheet and labels.
   
Q18: Can I apply membranes to a damp surface? 
 
A: You could use our special primer which is a water based, hydrostatic pressure resistant, two parts epoxy, suitable for green hardened concrete and damp surfaces. Generally water based systems are able to be used on a damp but drying surface, however  Hibuild Epoxy primer should be used if in doubt.
 
Q19: What can I use in ponds or pools?
 
A: We would suggest to appy Fish Pond UV resistant liquid membrane after priming for ponds waterproofing.   Alternatively you could use Druopond can also be used. Epoxy Wear may be used as top coat over render for interior and exterior ponds. We would suggest to use 3 coats Crystoflex after 2 coats epoxy primer for pools.
 
Q20: How long should I wait until I do a flood test
  
A: As a general rule a minimum of 4 days@ 25 C and 75%RH, however this time will increase if the temperature is lower or the humidity is higher.
 
Q21: Can I water down a water based membrane? 
 
A: No, the membrane is pre-mixed and should be applied at the recommended application rate.
 
Q22: I require product advice regarding wataerproofing tothe inside of a semi underground masonry wall. Moisture is present causing paint blistering.     
 
A: Firstly you would need to remove the paint, apply moisture barrier Epoxy, follow by cementetious liquid membrane.
 
Q:23: What is the expected drying time of a water based membrane? 
 
A: You should allow a minimum of 3-4 days at 25 C and 75% RH.
 
Q24:  We have a Tennis Clubroom project under construction that requires a waterproof coating to a first floor deck that is roofed but open at the sides. The delta core has a slab topping on top that varies in thickness from 175mm on the east to 75mm on the west draining to a ACO SS strip drain. Do you have a product that we can use that will stand up to pedestrian traffic from this first floor viewing platform. 
 
A: AzcoTR is a trafficable, high build, water based acrylic waterproofing membrane, It is UV resistant, tough and durable but still flexible.
 
Q25:    I have a small water feature I need to water proof, it is made from FC sheet. Can I use Crystoflex.
 
A:  Yes, you can. Wrimco-Crystoflex is suitable for many waterproofing applications, and is particularly useful for areas requiring hydrostatic pressure resistance and immersed applications including water retaining structures such as concrete tanks, ponds, pools, fountains and water features. Wrimco-Crystoflex is suitable for contact with drinking water.
 
Q26:   I have a balcony (3 m x  6 m) that has been tiled over concrete/cement about 20 years ago and is now leaking into the room below. Which one of your sealer do you recommend, as I do not want to remove the tiles and put down an new membrane and then re-tile.
 
A:   Azcosealer is formulated to provide a versatile sealer capable of deep penetration into a wide range of substrates and cures to form a clean, tough (hard) and resilient coating in a satin (semi gloss) finish.  S900 is a clear, high pH, deep penetrating siloxane waterproofing solution. S900 penetates in to the tissue of the porous substrate and create a barrier, below the surface, to prevent the ingress of water. S900 is an effective waterproofing solution and stops leaks without lifting tiles or changing the overall appearance of the surface. S900 is capable of withstanding high pH conditions such as found in new concrete and lime based mortars and bricks. S900 still allows the diffusion of vapours or 'breathing' ability of the substrate.
   
Q27:  I have some wooden shelving that needs to go into a scientific laboratory. These shelves must conform to certain guidelines including..."be smooth, impermeable to water, cleanable, and resistant to damage by the cleaning agents and/or disinfectants that will be used in the facility." The shelves are currently raw woods. The disinfectant used in our lab would be considered quite mild and the shelves would only be wiped over with disinfectant occasionally. The shelves are to go inside a 15 degree C cabinet and have plastic containers placed on them. I have 10 shelves, approximately 520 x 440 x 15 mm in size. Can you suggest any products that might provide this type of protection to the shelving?
 
A:  I would suggest Epoxy primer which is an easily applied, water based 2 part epoxy. Epoxies are well known for their chemical resistance.
 
Q28:  What  the best product would be for waterproofing an external concrete slab? The slab is an external chiller plant room which sits half over another plant room, and half over an art gallery space. The finish of the external plant room is simply a new cement screed laid to falls (on an existing slab) and we don't intend to apply a finish over the screed. Is there a product that is both UV stable and trafficable that we can apply to the cement screed that will eliminate water ingress and can it be integrated with floor wastes? 
 
A:  We would recommend epoxy primer follow by polyurethane UV stable liquid membrane .
 
Q29:    We have just completed an exposed aggregate driveway (uncoloured cement with blue metal aggregate) and we are researching which sealer to use. I am concerned about a products ability to be recoated in a couple of years. Do both your penetrating and also surface film sealers lend themselves to a simple recoat in the future? I don't want to have to soften the old coating in order for the recoat to key in. Looking to patch existing coating on concrete floor in pasteurising area which gets hosed down on a regular basis. Which product would be suitable for this application..
 
A:  Would recommend Azcosealer as there is no need to treat old coating, just clean and reapply.
 
Q30:    I would like to create a room that will be under a timber balcony which has a proper ceiling and roof cover (part of the whole roof structure of the house). Currently when it rains no water comes through, unless we purposely hose. So would like to seal it so a ceiling can be installed to create this room under it. Is there a substance that can be used for the balcony timber floor?
 
A:  We would recommend DuraEF or P15 flexible liquid membrane.
 
Q31:    I would like to coat external timber floor by covering it with compressed cement sheet and coating with a non slip coloured membrane. The deck has a spa pool.
 
A:   Our Trafficable high build, water based acrylic waterproofing membrane will do the job.
 
Q32:     My house is timber frame and brick veneer construction. The bathroom has a concrete slab and I have removed the tiles and the cement render which held them in place. The walls are framing grade local hardwood (Tas Oak, or eucalypt). I have removed the plaster sheet from the walls so the slab and the frame are ready for the water proofing treatment.
 
A:    We recommend our Extra Flexible water based latex emulsion rubber waterproofing membrane, 15 litres to do 8-10 sq. m. and use our Polyurethane joint sealant for corners, angle and across doorways.
 
Q33:   The Situation is a basement retaining wall (of besser brick) and concrete floor. The junction of the floor and wall is experiencing dampness/water vapour (thankfully no running water). The reason is wet sub-soil on the other side (external face) of the wall.  It is not possible to access the sub-soil to remove the wetness/improve drainage. Is there product(s) to seal/prime/membrane the internal face of the wall & floor prior to painting wall and tiling the floor?
 
A:    Prime with our special primer and 2 coats of cementitious liquid membrane, best to go full height or at least to dirt height. You may also need to membrane the outside wall above the dirt height as besser brick is so porous. Also check that the drainage is not blocked.
 
Q34:   I need to waterproof an area above a garage (kind of a large balcony). This space is used as an outdoor entertainment area with lounges and a BBQ. Wouldn't call it high traffic but it is walked on. It is an old slab and currently leaks into the roof of the garage. The leak is damaging my car. I would like a waterproof solution that can be painted over. Happy to diy any help would be appreciated. The area is under cover but still is exposed to the elements.      
   
A:  Best to use UV resistant flexible pedestrian trafficable waterproofing membrane.
 
Q35:  Which product is suitable for application over expanded Polystyrene?    
   
A:  Duroroof if it is exposed, if not use DuraEF SBR, but suggest to use Leakseal tape over joints.
 
Q36:   I am designing a reinforced core filled 0.6m - 1.4m high blockwork wall. It is a type of bund wall which will have flood waters on the outside every now and then. The waters may remain for 2-3 days as experienced in the recent floods in Rochester Victoria.  I want to provide a clear painted sealant / tanking to the outside of the wall as a precaution. Can you recommend something please. It is an structure that is open to the elements.      
   
A:   We recommend 2 coats of DuroAC Clear, first priming with 2 coats clear primer.
 
Q37:    I'd like to waterproof my bathroom floor with a fiberglass matting + a waterproofing agent. I also need a waterproofing agent for bathroom fibre cement walls prior to tiling. (Approx 20 square metres).       
   
A:    We suggest to use tough, flexible, urethane modified acrylic membrane P15 with water based  Acrylic primer after caulking perimeters and corners with urethane sealant. P15 can be used for floor and walls.
   
Q38:  I have a timber framed external wall structure that forms part of a bathroom. Is there a tanking product I could use to wrap the wall and expose the tanking as a feature.
 
A:   A torch on membrane would not be suitable but you could brush or roll apply Wrimco black polyurethane. You could also mix a small protion with some Xylene as a primer.
    
Q39: What is the maximum period of time I can leave polyurethane membrane exposed to the sun before tiling.
 
A: Two weeks.
 
Q40: Should I be worried that my external urethane has formed white dust on the surface?
 
A:  The phenomenon you have observed is quite normal for most urethane membranes whether UV stabilised or not and is called "chalking". The white dust you see on the surface is actually a protective layer that forms from UV exposure. If you rub it off, it will in due course re-appear but best to leave it alone.  Aliphatic urethanes do not exhibit "chalking" to nearly such an extent but must be applied promptly and preferably the next day over the main membrane. If applied much later you are likely to have delamination.
 
Q41: I need the waterproofing done as soon as possible after concrete pouring. How can I reduce the time delay for concrete curing?    
   
 
Q42 W hen should I employ liquid applied membranes and sheet membrane  
 
 
Q43:  How do I waterproof a FC deck nailed to laminated timber joints and then install a timber deck supported on battens. The butt joints of the FC are chamfered.
 
A:  The first step is to caulk the Vee joints preferably with our neutral cure silicone which will act as a bond breaker. You could use our polyurethane sealant since the joints are laminated timber and hence less likely to unduly stretch the sealant. If ordinary timber joists had been used, then it would be advisable to cover the joints with our 180mm wide x 1mm butyl rubber tape. Alternatively, you could build up the thickness of the membrane by priming and then stripe over the joints with the urethane membrane, and allowing to partly cure before applying the main coat. Similarly dab a dollop of membrane over the nails. Screws would have been preferable. You could also build up the thickness at the critical points with polyester fabric or fleece.

 

Instead of using liquids, the ideal system would be Wrimco SBS torch applied membrane but still fill the Vees with sealant so it is uniformly supported. Normally there would be no need to screw the battens onto the FC but if it was deemed necessary, seal around the screws with urethane sealant, or SBS mastic for the SBS, before screwing down tight.

   
Q44 How to waterproof an interlocking blockwork wall to be built when only 150mm from the adjoining property.
 
A:  Because of the very limited space, you have to waterproof every 2 or 3 blocks as they are installed with crystoseal. This product is being used as it can be applied to a damp surface which is likely to be the case with the lowest blocks and will withstand the negative pressure when the wall is subsequently core filled. since crystoseal is not flexible but cures quickly, it would be advisable to apply at least one good coat of REO, the vertical grade SBR latex, or BLW bitumen modified membrane if a black colour is preferred, to the crystoseal, but first apply 90mm wide leakseal tape over the critical block/slab joint.

 

To protect the REO/BLW and to provide additional safety, hang Nippleboard dimpled PP 1200mm wide and cut to length from the 50m, fixing at the top mechanically and overlapping each sheet 150mm. To stop water from entering at the top, seal with pressure seal, including at the drops every 1050mm if the ground is sloping. Finally fill with coarse river gravel; not crushed rock as the fines will block the sock over the ag. drain. The above ground portion of the wall can be rendered onto pressure seal, then waterproofed with Duro AC which may be tinted or painted. If not rendered, then waterproof with Duro AR clear solvent based acrylic sealer but water could enter at the joints if there is any movement. If this occurs, than AC can be applied . 
    
    
Q45:  I am enquiring about what product you could suggest for a leak I have in my balcony. It is finished in unpolished porcelain tiles. There are no obvious cracks or openings and I suspect that water is seeping through the minute gaps between the grout and tiles. The area is not used very often, but is subject to traffic so the coating must be able to withstand light traffic. Any product I can apply on the tiles.
 
A:   We would recommend to prime 2 coats clear AR primer follow by 2 coats UV resistant clear liquid membrane.

 

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